Top 10 Do’s and Don’ts of the Dalton Highway
With 414 miles of frost-heaves, broken chip-seal, and grated dirt surfaces, the Dalton Highway certainly has its challenges. On a good day, you can ride it wide open. On a bad day… you can go home in a helicopter.
Every year motorcyclists are killed on the Dalton Highway. But this road offers the rider the adventure gamut. Almost half of the highway is paved or chip-sealed. The other half can be smooth or baseballs. There are relatively no places to stop along the way: no gas, no convenient stores… no McDonalds. There are stretches of up to 245 miles without gas. There are no tire shops or police stations. A wrecker to the Arctic Circle from Fairbanks is a $1,600 bill. You’re literally riding through pristine wilderness.
After many trips up this road, I’ve compiled this valuable list of “must-know” tips that I’d like to share with you.
Not all bikes are suitable for the Dalton. Depending upon the conditions you’ll want to be properly equipped.
1# Don’t: Put Weight Up High on Your Bike
Pack your bike with care. At some point, you’re going to hit “700 yards of terror.” The road is going to be so slick that you lose all traction, and every little thing in your favor will be precious. Keep your center of gravity low. Anything heavy in your gear should be at the bottom of your panniers, strapped to your bike low, or discarded altogether. This includes large gas tanks; every extra gallon you carry will weigh you down. For example, if you have a 9-gallon tank, fill it with only 7 gallons.
Talk to one rider and they breezed up and down it, enjoyed 70 degree temperatures, and an easy ride. Talk to another and they hit several road construction areas where a grater and a water truck were working together to make life a sloppy misery. As long as you bank on at least “700 yards of terror,” you should be prepared for the Dalton.
2# Do: Choose Your Tires Wisely
Long distance tourers have a dilemma: Do you choose knobby or less aggressive tires? Since you’re destined to hit a sloppy section, you should be aware of the two main schools of thought. Some say knobbies, others 70–30 tires. Both work but have their limitations, and it often comes down to rider skill. Knobbies are great and are the surest way to prepare for the water truck or Mother Nature’s over-watering program. The only problem with knobbies is that you’ll have to plan ahead.
If you’re riding from, say, the continental U.S., you’ll most likely wear knobbies down before you get there. Because of this, an outfit called Adventure Cycle Works out of Fairbanks was started. You can send them your tires, have them waiting before you begin your run to the Arctic Ocean. When you’re on your way back, you can have them swapped back. A little extra time and money spent in Fairbanks will insure you as much grip as possible for your Arctic Ocean journey.
Of the 70–30 tires available, I’m a fan of the Avon Distanzia, which is a good street tire, but really shines when the conditions get sloppy. And, you can get 6,000 miles out of the rear.
There are times when the mud is so thick, especially in road construction areas, that you’ll lose your grip, no matter what tire you have. Do not be surprised when this happens. Just get on the pegs, drop a gear to gain torque, and put a little throttle on....
Choose your tires carefully. The author offers some experiential advice, well worth noting.
3# Don’t: Go Without an Emergency Plan
The highway runs through the most remote parts of North America. Oddly enough, there’s no infrastructure up there to deal with accidents. If you get into an emergency situation, chances are, you’re going to have to get yourself out of it. There is heavy truck traffic up and down the highway, and they do help riders quite often, but don’t rely on them.Bring a buddy: With a second rider, at least you can formulate a plan of extraction without feeding the mosquitos off to the side of the road.
SPOT: Bring a SPOT or other emergency locator, especially if you are riding alone, so at least your friends and loved ones will know where you are and can help, albeit belatedly.
Bring a “sat” (satellite) phone: This is by far the smartest solution. If anything should happen, you can at least start fixing the problem immediately. The sat phone saves time and lives. There really is no good reason not to have one if you are going to travel in this remote corner of the world—especially alone.
The conditions in Alaska are extremely unpredictable.
4# Do: Make Sure to have Dirt Riding Skills
The Dalton is no place to learn how to ride dirt. If you did not grow up on dirt bikes, race competitively, or take an off-road course with lots of practice, then this road can easily be over your head. If you do not know to how get on the pegs and give it the gas when things get creamy, then you should not be on the Dalton at all.
This road can throw everything at you, and your mistake can cost you thousands of dollars… or worse, far worse.
Before you ride it, be sure to know how to handle your bike in gravel, deep gravel, and mud. Practice on fire roads and dirt tracks on your home turf. Spin that back tire and get familiar with acceleration on these conditions... these are the tools you need to master before you can go up the Dalton safely.
5# Don’t: Forget About Fuel
The highway has a 245 mile stretch without fuel. Most 5-gallon tank bikes won’t make it if the rider is going over 60 mph. Therefore, bring a small, two-gallon fuel container and strap it to you bike for your ride north out of Fairbanks. You won’t need it until Coldfoot, but you’ll be glad you brought it!
6# Do: Clean Your Radiator
The composition of dirt on this highway is clay, and the surface is mixed with Calcium Chloride to keep the dust down in the summer. It acts as a natural hardener, so when the surface is dry it has a pavement-like quality. But when wet, a thin layer of mucky clay forms that will cake onto your bike. Once it sticks to your engine, it heats up and dries like a ceramic.
When this happens, you can’t get it off, even with a chisel. To be sure, your bike will never be the same again if you don’t clean it off. It will also clog your radiator, and if gone unchecked will cause your engine to severely overheat to the point that it will stop you in your tracks.
To counter any problems, find a hose in Coldfoot on your way up and down... and see if you can find one in Deadhorse. This is not an easy task, but you’ll find if ask nicely, you will be able to clean your radiator in that lonely outpost.
When wet, clay mixed with calcium chloride isn’t your friend. Take every precaution to get that gunk cleaned off your bike at the earliest possible moment.
7# Do: Choose the Right Bike
Many riders figure that they can take their comfortable cruiser up the Dalton. This works well, until you hit that “700 yards of terror.” A couple of years ago, some adventurous Harley riders chose to take on this highway after the annual HOG rally. What happened after that was a disaster: some of the riders were air-vacced out—and some of the bikes never ridden again.
My suggestion is that you leave your street bike for the street, and ride a dirt-oriented motorcycle on the Dalton. All of the BMW GS models do well up there, however almost any 650cc dual-sport style bike will be more appropriate.
A safe solution for this is to ride to Anchorage and rent a motorcycle for last leg the trip. Both MotoQuest (MotoQuestTours.com) and Alaska Motorcycle Adventures (RentAlaska.com) offer this service.
8# Don’t: Push It
Most accidents I have encountered on the Dalton involved the most insidious of evils: fatigue. The nature of the Dalton plays into the hands of this very dangerous condition. There is nowhere to stop, no places “to see” ... so the rider just seems to “naturally” want to keep on going.
During the long summer days, the typical vacationing rider, who has drawn up an aggressive schedule to “see it all” in Alaska, will not stop until the sun goes down. In the land of the midnight sun, this won’t happen for a couple of months!! Therefore, these riders push themselves to the brink of exhaustion... and then a little more.
I recommend that riders budget four days from Fairbanks to Deadhorse and back. Stop in Coldfoot or Wiseman for the night on your way north, and again on your way south. Stop in Deadhorse for the night and get some rest. Spend the $200+ for a night at a hotel in Deadhorse and get your rest. Be smart: don’t push it at all.
9# Do: Be Aware of Truck Traffic
Large 18-wheel trucks are constantly running this road—and they own the roads. When you are riding this road, adhere to a new set of rules and become very aware of the effect large trucks have on your ride to the Arctic.
Here are some skills you’ll need to develop:
- When you cross a truck on dirt, hunker down behind your windscreen. Trucks throw rocks—sometimes the size of baseballs—so protect yourself. Do not ride with your face shield open. Keep as much of your body behind a protective surfaces as possible.
- Let trucks pass. They run at speeds of up to 90 mph!! Keep vigilant in your rear view mirror for these monsters creeping up on you. The shoulders of this road are extremely soft, and will throw you into the bushes. So, when pulling over to let them by, don’t slow down too much, and do not go too far off the side of the road.
- Be aware of where you park. This highway will be empty for up to 30 minutes at a time—making you complacent. Add a herd of caribou and the rider wants to stop and take pictures. Park off the road in such a way as to account for almost anything to pass. If, for example, two 18-wheelers come from opposite directions and need to pass each other right where you’re parked, there’d better be room!
- If you ever stop, make sure to pull completely off the road. Otherwise, you may get an ear-full from an ice-road trucker in the Coldfoot parking lot (or worse)!
10# Do: Outfit Your Ride
Bring the tools necessary to get out of a pinch. Be able to practice removing tires, replacing inner tubes, patching or plugging holes, taking your bike apart, getting air into your tires, etc. Take time, beforehand, and prepare.
Accessorize your bike. Make sure it can take the rocks or fall over and not get damaged. Protect your engine on the sides and underneath. Protect your hands with good-quality guards. Make sure your pegs do not get slippery. Make sure your seat fits your body. Do everything you can to make the bike comfortable, well balanced and able to take a hit.
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These are the basics for a safe and memorable trip as far north as you can go on the North American continent. Your health and safety, of course, come first. Your lust for adventure will not be stopped. In fact, it should be encouraged! Simply follow the above steps to make sure you get home safe and sound—and have the time of your life. Ride safe!
Phil Freeman is the founder and lead guide of MotoQuest. He is a veteran of many rides up the Dalton Highway. He is the co-author, with motorcycle photographer/writer Lee Klancher, of the book “The Adventurous Motorcyclist’s Guide to Alaska” (reviewed in ADVMoto—Nov./Dec. 2012 edition). Over his 13-year career as a motorcycle guide in Alaska, he has witnessed the very best and worst prepared adventure riders you can imagine.
