Test Ride: 2006 BMW R1200GS Adventure Review

Motorcycle companies like to introduce new models to the press with a maximum of flair. It might be in Las Vegas, with a sound and light show highlighting the latest chromed cruiser on stage. Or it might be a race track, where the scribblers can go as fast as they are capable of, and write learnedly about suspension fiddles and tire adhesion. But what about a dual-purpose machine, where gnarly roads are the appropriate venue, with loose rocks and soft sand and deep water providing appropriate challenges?

Photo Credit: TotalMotorcycle.comTry an intro in South Africa, specifically the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area down in Cape Province, traversed by just one deliciously long stretch of poor to bad road, going from flattish valley to multiple water-crossings to a rocky mountain.

That last was a prize, as this old road had been carved into the mountainside many, many years ago, and the annual rains had washed all the dirt away, leaving nothing but the sloping surfaces of rounded rock to navigate. Ideal GS country, requiring a good grip on the handlebars and bottom gear to negotiate. This was all part of an extended new-model BMW intro, with the R1200 GS Adventure portion being the best bit by far.

The GS stint began one fine, beautiful morning in a ten-star resort hotel on the shore of the Indian Ocean in a town called Knysna. Nine of us Americans woke to a sumptuous breakfast, and then went outside to greet our Adventures. These were lovely beasts, with panniers and top boxes and gas tanks that could take us over 300 miles. Big machines, which fuelled with almost eight gallons of gas and ready to go, probably weighed close to the 600-pound passenger, and the half ton GVWR has been reached. Fortunately, we did not have pillons on board. 

Cutting to the chase, let me say if I were to choose a motorcycle for an extended trip around the world-say a year or more-the R1200GS Adventure would be the one. And before all you advocates of lightweight dual-purpose singles join the fray, let me explain what a trip like that consists of having done it myself.

You load the bike with camping gear and all the rest, start in Europe, head east to India, catch a boat in Bombay which will take you and the bike to Kenya, ride down to South Africa, catch a flight to West Australia, ride a loop around that continent, hop over to New Zealand, then catch a plane to Panama. In all, 20,000 land miles, of which 90% will be on paved roads, the rest on reasonable dirt. Such a trip does not qualify as a boony-basher, but covers relatively civilized byways. Granted, if you take the road through Kenya’s Northern Territories in the rainy season, with mud two feet deep, you will find this Adventure bike a handful and a half.

Another good reason for my choice is that BMW has one of the best dealer networks in the world, and you should be able to get motorcycle parts via any car dealer. A third factor is I like the shaft drive; chains are pretty darned good these days, but they need to be adjusted, wear out, and break. I’ll take that enclosed shaft, thank you very much.

Back to Knysna: leaving the cost we began our trip with a little shakedown run on a dirt road over the Prince Alfred Pass in the Otienekwa Mountains, just to check us out, as our hosts said. We all performed adequately. Our half dozen.

• Different Model Offerings

BMW now offers two GS models; both have very similar specifications, except the Adventure offers a bit more for the long-distance enthusiast. Running gear is essentially the same, with a claimed 100 crankshaft horsepower at 7000 rpm. More important are the 85 lb/ft of torque at 5500 rpm. Power goes through the six-speed gearbox and the Paralever final drive. The only internal modification appears to be a more powerful alternator, putting out 720 watts as opposed to the 600 watts on the standard GS.
The most noticeable addition to the Adventure is the bigger gas tank, protected by a hefty tubular crash guard; the cylinder heads are also well-protected, preventing accidental holing when negotiating lots of rocks.

It also sports a big skid plate and a larger windshield, which can be angled to please the rider and does a good job at keeping the wind away. As standard boxer frame design goes, the engine serves as a stressed member of the chassis, along with two minimalist steel tubular frame sections, the seat section, and the single-sided swingarm.

The Adventure’s Telelever front and Paralever rear suspensions are subtly changed from the standard, with longer spring travel at both ends, giving 8.3 inches instead of GS’s 7.5 inches. The Telelever has the same 27.1 degrees of rake, but the trail on the Adventure is extended half an inch, from 4.25 to 4.75. The cross-spoked wheels carried the optional knobby Continental TKC 80 tires, which are rated to 90 mph, and work quite well in sand and mud. Wheelbase is 59.4 inches.

The adjustable seat has two positions, high and higher, at 35.2 and 36 inches. With an inseam of 34 inches, I had no problem, and even the short-legged one in our group had no real problem. The seat narrows at the front, making it easy to slide off to one side and get a toe down.

After our noon-day repast we headed into the Baviannskloof, a long dusty road stretching out for miles. We did hit a couple of sandy bits, and one rider did go down which pointed out the potential problem of excess complications; to wit, the ABS brakes.

While the ABS can be turned off on the GS models, our hosts had asked us to ride with the ABS engaged. After the sand incident the bike was not really damaged but the right handlebar had taken quite a whack and something had gone awry in the ABS electronics, leaving the bike with very limited braking ability.

Fortunately we did not have too much further to go before getting to our campsite, and once there a mechanic fiddled the system until it thought it was on the standard non-ABS setting. If I were to buy one of these Adventures, I would probably get it without ABS as I would surely fall down on occasion. I like ABS-equipped machines, but not in the rough and tumble of a GS world.

The valley was a microcosm of the pre-motorized world, and I could imagine ox carts trundling along a hundred years ago. The rough and ready farms were miles apart, inhabited by those who value solitude. Several places offered rustic accommodations for the back-country travellers, by car or bicycle.

That night, I was prepared to rough it in camp. Rolling along the un-trafficked track we saw a small BMW rondel on a fence post, an arrow pointing off to the right. Following a sandy track for half a mile, we came to a wide field and a dozen large tents. Each tent had big beds and heaters inside, with hot showers and set up 50 yards away. Elegant and comfy.

Dinner that evening was at the Sederkloof Lodge (sederkloof.co.za); we were greeted with a long table lit with candles, and huge platters of roasted game, eventually washed down with many bottles of red wine. After dinner we sat around a huge bonfire and told lies about our exploits.

In the morning, at breakfast, we were told that today’s ride would be somewhat more difficult than yesterday’s, and if anybody wished to go back the way we had come, no stigma would be attached. Two fellows opted for that choice. That is a tough call, but sensible riders understand their limits, and this was becoming a tough ride.

We should add that BMW had sited a helicopter at the Sederkloof, along with a doctor and a medic…just in case. Communication, if necessary, would be via satellite phones.
We rolled off, beginning the day with a number of crossings of the same river; lots of crossing, ranging from a foot of water over a concrete causeway to at least two feet coursing over loose stones for a good 50 yards. Fortunately the airbox sits quite high under the gas tank, and such riverine wanderings are doable.

Our photographer had great fun setting up the shots. This is when the weight of the Adventure is a distinct disadvantage. As the front wheel poked about among the unseen rocks, the riders kept the handlebars reasonably straight, hoping that they would not embarrass themselves in front of their colleagues. None did.

Leaving the river valley we began to climb the mountain, a nadgery bit indeed. Here the rain had washed the dirt off, exposing smooth rock. The Adventure had to be carefully guided into the right paths, and with the tires running about 18 psi, they clung handily to the surfaces. This was a variation on trails riding, and it is quite surprising how deftly the Adventure handles such travails.

The top of the mountain was flat, a mesa of sorts, providing a fast dirt road with long view, the ideal of world-travellers. By that time the dozen bikes were spread out over several miles, so there was no clutter or eating of dust.

In the distance we could see a green, fertile valley, fed by the Gamtoos River, but first we had to tip-toe our way down the steep-sided mountain, reversing the skills, so to speak, we had used to come up.

We had a late lunch in the little town of Patensie. It really was a splendid little adventure, and served to showcase all the attributes of the motorcycle; I commend BMW for the good sense to give us a real ride on these machines.

Great ride, great bike. Base price for the Adventure is about $16,000, but a lot of options are there to tempt the buyer.

• 2006 BMW R1200 GS ADVENTURE SPECIFICATIONS

Photo Credit: TotalMotorcycle.com

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Read Our Project BMW F800GS Adventure Article HERE